Turning off Stony Hill road, Bethel (Route 6) into the driveway of Armando’s Restaurant, I am impressed by the red tiled roof villa, reminiscent of those dotting the landscape of Armando Roma’s native Italian countryside.  Built in 2007 by Armando and his wife Mafalda (Mae), to replace their first Bethel restaurant, it fulfilled a dream Armando had carried with him since the age of 15 – when he first learned to cook.

Upon his family’s arrival in America, they settled in Bridgeport, where young Armando’s career would begin.  His first job was actually that of a baker in the kitchen of the infamous Ann’s Newfield Bakery.  That is where he learned to make his delicious breads and desserts.

He left the bakery in 1972 and found a ‘home’ for the next 15 years at Etterucci’s Restaurant in Stamford.  It was here that Armando crafted his culinary skills.  “I learned from an old chef who had worked in the big houses of Rome and Naples,” he reminisced.

But Armando had a growing desire to open his own restaurant.  He found a small retail building in Bethel that seemed perfect for a family restaurant.  He said goodbye to Stamford and hello to a charming New England community that welcomed his young family.

With his name above the front entrance, he opened his restaurant’s door to the residents of the area and many old friends from down county, who filled the dining room daily.  Business continued to grow, and over the years their three sons (Armando, Jr., Michael and Christopher) joined their parents in the family business. It was because of the restaurant’s enormous popularity that the Roma’s decided to realize Armando’s dream to build a restaurant villa.

Upon entering the very attractive foyer, Mae Roma greeted my party warmly and escorted us to our table in the main dining room.  Large, yet intimate, the room has the ambience of being casually elegent – with the tables dressed in rich linens.  The room was also quite full, and I was struck by the number of families who were enjoying a night out together.

My attention returned to the extensive list of traditional Italian fare, with such offerings as Chicken Romana, Shrimp Oreganato over Linguini or Baked Eggplant Rolatine.  I knew my choice of entree was going to be difficult…

On this evening, we began by ordering 3 different appetizers to share, Fried Calamari, Fried Zucchini and Fresh Mozzarella and Tomatoes.  A freshly-made loaf of Italian bread, served with a dish of olive oil and garlic, was so delicious that I had to force myself not to take a second slice.

The servings were more than enough to satisfy the four hungry souls at my table.  The calamari was sweet and fried to a perfect shade of gold; the zucchini was full of flavor and crisp, not overdone and tasting of oil; and it was obvious the mozzarella was fresh – it was smooth and firm.  I hope during the summer months, Armando serves tomatoes fresh from the garden – the mozzarella so deserves it.

My choice of entree was a challenge; but I had heard that Armando’s signature dish was veal, so I knew I was going to order one of his veal creations.  However, there were 9 selections
competing for my favor – and another two grilled veal specialties.  But there was one offering that I had not had in a number of years, Veal Sorrentina – a delightful dish made by layering the meat with eggplant and ham, topped with cheese.  It was served with linguini and salad.

I was not disappointed with my selection.  The serving was very generous and I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the piece of veal.  It was not the usual paper-thin cutlet.  On the contrary, Chef Armando cuts and bones the leg of veal himself, and slices it to a thickness that guarantees the flavor of the lightly battered meat will blend with and not be overwhelmed by the other layers.– The veal and the linguini were cooked to perfection, but the salad was a bit of a disappointment for its lack of creativity.

When my entree was placed before me, I was certain I would be taking some home; however it was so tasty, I couldn’t put down my fork until my plate was clean. – My compliments to the chef.
I must mention that armando’s boasts a wine list that is most appealing.  A very nice Australian Shiraz complemented my dinner quite nicely.

I took a few minutes to look around the room as the most attentive wait staff served a variety of desserts to the other guests.  Again, I recalled that Armando had learned to create desserts at one of the finest bakeries in Fairfield County.  And then I saw the perfect ending to this enjoyable evening, a Canoli Siciliano.

I don’t know how many of our readers know the origin of the name canoli.  I was told this story by an old Sicilian neighbor of mine, whose wife made the decadent delicacy for every holiday.  It seems the elongated shape reminded the people of his Italian town of the canna lily; and some locals actually shaped the dough for their dessert around the canna. Hence the name, canoli. Now, I don’t know if that’s a true story, but looking at the delicacy that was placed in front of me, I’ll place a wager that it is.

But that’s where the resemblance ends.  This canoli shell was a beautiful golden color– crisp, not overcooked.  And the filling…well, it was absolutely divine.  The ricotta cheese was smooth, and not overly sweetened.  It was obviously very fresh.  And the shell must have been very recently filled because it did not cause the shell to become soggy – a sign of an excellent pastry chef.  A perfect ending to a grand production.

Armando’s Restaurant, 47 Stony Hill Road, Bethel, (203) 794-0563.  Open 7 days for lunch and dinner.  All items on the menu are available for take out.  A second dining room is available for parties, weddings and special occasions.

Tags: bethel